Mouse test

How to use this mouse tester

1. Move the pointer into the test area and press each button: left, right, middle (press the wheel down), and the two side buttons, back and forward, if your mouse has them.
2. Each button lights up on the drawing and gets a press counter. When all five have worked, you see "All five buttons work". No side buttons? Most mice have only three, and that is fine.
3. Click single clicks at a normal pace and watch the Double-click check.
4. Roll the wheel slowly, one notch at a time, then quickly, and read the Scroll wheel panel.
5. Reset clears everything for another round.

Inside the test area, the right-click menu, middle-click scrolling and back/forward navigation are switched off, so every button can be pressed safely without leaving the page. Outside the area your mouse behaves as usual.

Double click test: is my mouse double clicking?

The most common mouse fault is a worn switch that sends two clicks when you press once. Files open when you meant to select them, and drag-and-drop lets go halfway.

The double-click check counts two presses of the same button that arrive closer together than the Limit (80 ms by default, adjustable from 30 to 150 ms) as an unwanted double click. A normal human double click is much slower than 80 ms between presses, so a hit at the default setting is a strong hint. The Last clicks timeline shows the gap before each click in milliseconds, with the too-fast ones marked.

How to read it:

• None so far after 50 or more normal single clicks: the switch is fine.
• One flag now and then: possibly your finger. Raise the limit or slow down and see if it repeats.
• Flags again and again on the same button: "Your switch may be wearing out". Contact the maker if the mouse is under warranty; switch replacement is a common repair for wired and wireless mice alike.

The same check works for the right button, which wears out in games that use it for aiming.

Mouse scroll test

The scroll panel counts wheel Steps up and down and shows the Delta per step, what each notch sends to the browser, with its Delta mode (pixels, lines or pages). From the pattern it tells you the Wheel type:

• Notched: a classic wheel with clicks you can feel. Every step sends the same amount.
• Smooth / touchpad: a free-spinning wheel, a touchpad or a high-resolution wheel sends many small, varying amounts.

The most useful number is Wrong-direction jumps: a step that goes against the last five steps. If you scroll down and the page jumps up now and then, this counter climbs. It usually means a dirty or worn wheel encoder. Blowing compressed air into the wheel gap sometimes helps; otherwise the encoder needs replacing.

Mouse not working right? Quick fixes

• Buttons do nothing in one app but work here: the app or the mouse software has remapped them. Reset the profile in the maker's software.
• Side buttons dark here: some mouse software assigns them to keystrokes instead of back/forward. Restore the default action and test again.
• Pointer lags or stutters: wireless interference, a low battery or a dirty sensor window. Test the polling rate to see if reports drop.
• Nothing works: try another USB port and another computer to separate mouse faults from system faults.

Go deeper with the mouse polling rate test, see how fast you can click in the CPS test or the right-click CPS test, and train your accuracy with the aim trainer. The guide to reading test results explains the numbers. This mouse test runs in your browser and records nothing. More tools: device tests.